First place in National Boulder Competition

Temperature in Holland is finally rising, which means the start of the Lead season is coming closer and endurance training has started. Therefore I have spent last week climbing routes double, up and down or annoying everyone in the bouldergym with my biep-biep stopwatch and looong traverses, crossing all the boulders. In between those sweaty, pumpy endurance trainings the final national boulder competition was being held last Saturday. Whit me and Vera in shared first position, this competition would decide who would place first in the end ranking.

Pretending to pinch a tufa in final boulder nr. 2 (Picture by Sytse van Slooten)

During qualifications I had a really hard time. After spending months climbing statically I completely lost any speed I had, resulting in terrible static climbing. I failed in every dynamic move and got really fed up with myself. Sorry everyone, for my complaints ;)

Preparing for the final, scarry move in the last problem (picture by Sytse van Slooten)

I needed to get my head right again for finals. In order to climb well I just needed to make some fun and enjoy the moves. During observation the final problems seemed to be really cool, which really helped me finding my motivation back. In isolation I visualized every boulder and tried to think of a similar move I made outdoors the week before. This helped me a lot. I was able to climb super relaxed again and flashed the first two boulders. Even the last boulder, with a running start I was pretty scared off, went down well. I managed to climb it in the last seconds, which was enough for first place. This means I placed first in the final ranking as well, which really surprised me!

Now it's time to get back to endurance training, with the last national lead competition coming up next weekend in my homegym: Mountain Network Amsterdam.

Testing time: Lead 2 and Saint Léger

The international competition season is getting closer with the European Championships in Chamonix taking place in about 5 weeks. Normally around this time of the year I've got a pretty good idea about my shape and the little things I want to change to be perfectly prepared for the season. Since injuries have been keeping me of my normal training plan I seriously had no idea about my level of fitness at the moment.

Onsight attempt in Slayer, pictures by Mirthe van Liere

Two weeks ago the second national lead competition was being held. Fortunately I managed to top out on all the routes again, which gave me some satisfaction. Apparently I wasn't that weak. But I was getting extremely bored in training: climbing the same routes and the same circuits over and over again, just to make sure I could keep on climbing without forcing my finger. Since outdoor climbing had turned out to be pretty good for my injury I decided that it was a good plan to do some onsight training outdoors. In this way I could get away from the too familiar routes and I could challenge my mind again with some new moves.

So one week ago we, Frank Loeve, Mirthe van Liere and I, drove all the way to Saint Léger. I have had a long wish list for this area since I left last year. The first route on the list was Le mur des 6 clopes, 8b/8b+. The first day I decided to take a look and the line turned out to be completely my style. Super psyched to link the moves I gave it a second try and to my astonishment I managed to finish it already. 8b/8b+ second go, and that after all those injuries! I couldn't (and still can't) believe it. Apparently the additional training plan worked out well. This was an amazing start of what turned out to be an amazing trip. All we did was looking for nice lines and just give it a go, no matter how hard or soft they were. In this way I sent many beautiful lines. Absolute memorable ones were:

- The onsight attempt in Slayer, 8a (which definitely felt much harder by the way), where I executed the moves fully committed and smooth in the beginning. After sending the first part (7c+) the real fight began. I got super pumped, but kept on sticking the holds until (30 minutes and 40m later) the last move, argh!

- La farce tranquille, 8a, one of the most beautiful lines I have climbed in this area. A perfect mix of tufa climbing in a huge overhang and a really exposed technical finish on small crimps.

- The workout session in L'idéal chimérique, 8c/c+ on the last day. The moves in this route were super inspiring. It felt like it should be possible to climb it if I would have loads of time. At least it gave me some confidence that I have the power to make those moves and this really motivates me to keep on training and hopefully link them one day!

Worldcup Boulder Innsbruck

At the beginning of this year, when I was planning my season, I decided to compete in a Boulder Worldcup this year as well. It always feels kind of hard to get into the 'competition mode' again after a long training period. By competing in Innsbruck I hoped to get used to the international competitions again, so I am not having such a hard time when the lead season starts.

Anyway, things turned out different then I hoped. After spraining my ankle earlier this year I got injured on my finger. I just trained too much, since I wanted to catch up some training after the previous injury. Instead of getting better, my finger got worse and worse. A week before Innsbruck I was pretty sure I wouldn't be able to compete.

I decided to go climbing outdoors, in the Pfalz. It is pretty frustrating to think about your injury all the time and I just needed to climb some nice routes without worrying. The Pfalz is super classic and kind of scary! The distances between the bolds are big and you often have to place your own gear. The climbing is simply amazing and even the easy routes are a real challenge over there. In this way I could climb a lot, without forcing my finger, and things got better every day!

When I got home I had a few days left before Innsbruck. The last day before departure I decided to give it a go. This turned out to be a really good decision! During the competition I only felt my finger once. I really enjoyed competing and actually felt pretty strong. I managed to climb the first boulder 2nd go. In the other problems I felt close on sending them, but it seemed like I was just a little bit too tensed to actually do it.

In the end I placed 29th. If I had only flashed the first problem I would have made semi's. That is a pity and I am not super satisfied about my performance, but at least I convinced myself that my power improved a lot during the winter. The competition really inspired me. I am super psyched to train the last weeks before the lead season starts. Keep my fingers crossed that the injuries will be fine now!

Pictures made by Sytse van Slooten (foto.sytse.net)

Boulder 2

After an amazing week in Kalymnos it was time to climb some plastic again. I am always having a hard time switching from the super slow outdoor climbing style to the more powerfull and fast indoor style. However a week in Greece made me really relaxed. Just 3 days after I came home, the second national boulder competition was being held, in Enschede this time. I discovered that climbing a competition just after returning from an outdoor climbing trip is actually really easy. I didn't have to deal with the mental part, because it just wasn't there.

Final Boulder nr.3 (Picture by Michelle Kruize)

During the qualifications I was a little bit tensed, but I guess that's normal for a competition. I managed to climb all 8 problems and placed first for finals. The finals were pretty cool, although I have to admit, the boulders really suited my style as a leadclimber. The first and the last problem were pretty obvious, but when observation finished I still had no clue how to solve the second problem. In isolation I kept imagining myself climbing in Kalymnos, so I could keep up the good feeling. This turned out really well. I managed to flash the first boulder. In the second boulder I imagined myself standing in between two big stalactites, which gave me the creativity and space to come up with a solution, thanks to which I managed to flash this one too. The third and last problem went down with a flash as well, which resulted in a 1st place.

Standing in between the two big stalactites in boulder nr. 2 (Picture by Michelle Kruize)

It has to be said that Vera is injured at the moment, and really had some problems with her finger during the finals. However, for myself I climbed as good as I could. I really had a good time and enjoyed the competition!

Kalymnos

After many weeks of training in rainy, cold Holland I finally found my way to the rocks. Some weeks ago I ran into some really cheap tickets to Kalymnos, so I had no choice. After a stressful period with many big changes I really needed a break: celebrating vacation, enjoying the sun, climbing the most beautiful routes in a paradise full of tufas, etc. Kalymnos is THE perfect destination for climbing and relaxing!

Sunset at Grande Grotta

I decided to focus on onsighting this trip. I just wanted to climb every beautiful line I saw, never mind how hard or easy it was. Nearly every day we visited a new sector. Grande Grotta and Sikati Cave were definitely the most impressive: super long routes (all more than 40m from 8a and harder), running all the way trough big roves covered in stalactites. This is where I have been dreaming of every since I saw the first pictures of Kalymnos. Many people had recommended a route in Grande Grotta called Fun de Chichunne, an 8a, crossing a big rove, running all the way through the cave. In my opinion climbing simply doesn’t get any better. I have never enjoyed climbing a route so much before! The route runs from no-hands-rest to no-hands-rest with super nice moves with many tricks in between. I managed to onsight it, which took me 40 minutes and lowered down at sunset, looking over the sea and enjoying the moment.

 Left: onsighting Angelica 8a. Right: Enjoying the view after sending Fun de Chichunne (pictures by Waldo  Ruiterman)

Besides I managed to climb an 8b called Gaia and I onsighted two other 8a’s, together with a bunch of 7’s. Only five days of climbing were definitely too short and I am sure I will return to this beautiful island in the near future. For now I am charged again to get back to normal live for a while. Next thing coming up: the second national boulder competition this Sunday.

Mammut and Mountain Network

Signing the contract (Picture by Reinier Rijke)

I am happy to announce my two new main sponsors: Mammut and Mountain Network. After many years of corporation with The North Face, Petzl and Beal it was time for a change. For most of you Mammut doesn't need any introduction: this Swiss brand is famous for the super high quality products, from clothes to hard wear, from shoos to sleeping bags etc. Mountain Network is one of the leading brands in climbing gyms in Holland, which has recently taken a big step in professionalizing the sport by opening a climbing gym (with a huge overhang, full of hard routes!) in a campus where sporters can live and eat as well.

Last Friday, during the official opening op Mountain Network Amsterdam, I signed the new contract. Mammut and Mountain Network will give me the chance to focus on climbing for 100%. This partnership is opening many doors for me and I am really excited to work together and to see what the future brings!

Boulder 2

Last week the national boulder season kicked off too. Since I sprained my ankle 3 weeks before I was terrified of falling. During the qualifications I climbed horrible. I was really tensed and started hesitating once I was more than 1m above the ground. Fortunately I gained some confidence during the day and bouldering started to feel more and more natural again. In the end I qualified 2nd for the finals, by climbing all 8 problems , but in way too many tries.

The final boulders were simply amazing. The route setter had done a really good job by setting spectacular and tricky boulders. In the first 2 boulders I was still very tensed and scared, but after I had finished the slab I started to feel better and I could even relax in the last problem. I ended up in 2nd position behind Vera, which give me some points in the ranking to qualify for the European Boulder Championships which are held in Eindhoven this year!

Qualifications (Picture made by Brigitte Wieles)

Final problem nr. 1 (Picture made by Sytse van Slooten)