19 maart 2012

Sella Part 3 and Lead 1

The last two climbing days of our Sella trip were pretty exhausting. Elko and I were already pretty worn out. On tuesday we decided to take a look at an other sector called VIPs. There were 3 short 8a's which we wanted to climb all in just one afternoon. We ended up doing none. It's always the same with such high expectations ;)
On the last day we returned to Wild Site once more. After such an intensive week of climbing it was pretty funny to feel how hard even the easier routes got. I onsighted a 7b in which I had to fight like I was climbing an 8b instead :P. Although it was a really nice day and a really nice end of a perfect week.

On saturday morning we dropped Elko at the airport. My flight left in the evening so I decided to spent the day sightseeing in Alicante. Like real tourists (with backpacks and a big camera) we visited all the main sights, ate tapas and enjoyed a huge ice cream.

At 2 a.m. I finally got home. By then I wished I had booked the early flight, because the next day (or actually that same day already :P) was the first national competition of this year. Fortunate I didn't even feel too bad the next day. The competition was fun, the routes were super cool and I even managed to top out all the routes, including the finals! Not too bad after such a week and such a short night rest.

Pictures are comming soon!

14 maart 2012

Sella Part 2

After our multipitch adventure we really needed a restday. Considering the fact that it is over 20 degrees here is Spain (and we both are spooky white after a long winter in Holland) we decided to go to the beach. First we drove around to see a bit of the beautiful landscape and visited some authentic villages. Around lunchtime we arrived at the beach. We both got a bit tanned and of course also sunburned, exactly like it has to be :P

Today we headed back to sector Wildsite. I had decided to try something a bit more challenging. I was told that there was a nice, resistant 8a+ on really small crimps, called Tirali Valent. Exactly what I was looking for, except for the fact that the route appeared to be just really slightly overhanging, which isn't my strongest point. However, I decided to give it a try and the moves turned out to be really cool. A lot of crossing, extremely technical, but also some more physical and wide moves. In my first go after working the route I got extremely pumped because the route forced me to move really carefully and slowly. I worked the crux sequence once more and found a better solution. At the end of the day I gave the route one more try and I managed to climb it! I hadn't expect to climb this route so soon at all. It's the first time I climb an 8a+ in just 3 tries! Elko managed to finish another 8a+ as well, so all together it was a good day of climbing.

I won't be able to upload any pictures because of the slow internet connection but stay tuned for the updates. The pictures will arrive when I am back in Holland!

12 maart 2012

Sella Part 1

Saturday morning, way too early (4 a.m.) I had to get up to catch my flight to Alicante, Spain. The good part about leaving this early was that we had 2 hours daylight left by the end of the day to climb some routes in Sella!

I warmed up in a beautiful route called Black is Black (7b) and worked the moves in one of the most climbed 8a's of the crag, Ergometria. When I got down I told Elko the beta and he found his way up. In the last minutes of daylight we hurried back to the car. Of course too late because we wanted to climb as long as possible. Some things never change ;)

The next day we returned to the crag. I managed to finish the 8a I had been working on the day before in my second try. Afterwards I tried a really cool route called Dimension Diamante. I might return to the route once more, the moves felt pretty hard and a bit my antistyle but I figured out some sequences which were so amazing!
After dinner we walked up to Villa Pico to ask for the climbing guide. We actually want to catch some sun as well here in Spain. Sella is amazing and sector Wildsite has enough to offer for several days, but it's North Facing and pretty cold. Elko was really psyched to do some multi pitching, so we looked for a nice long wall and we found exactly what we were looking for.

So today we headed to the city of Calp where a huge wall is situated, surounded by the sea. After a short walk along the ocean we walked up to the perfect orange and yellow limestone route we wanted to climb. 300 metres, 7 pitches. Considering the fact that I have only been multipitching twice (which was in Orpiere where the routes are really well developed) I felt a bit uncomfortable. Especially when we had to look for the next bolts while standing at more than 100 metres high at a point of no return (it seemed to me but Elko later told me that we could have gone back if we wanted to). But in the end I started to really enjoy the exposed climbing and we had an amazing day today. Just before sunset we reached the top. We enjoyed the view for a moment, ate and drank some (which we nearly hadn't done all day long because we were pretty afraid the bottles would fall down:P) and then returned to the car. It was a really cool adventure and now it's time for a restday. I will try to upload the pictures we have made soon. I hope the internet connection will allow me to. Good night!

9 maart 2012

Off to Spain!!!

Morgen vertrek ik voor een weekje naar Spanje: zon, lekker warm (hopelijk) en vooral heel veel mooie rotsen en lekker klimmen! We gaan naar Sella, een gebied waar ik nog nooit geweest ben, maar wat heel mooi schijnt te zijn. Ik kan niet wachten!

Ik zal de komende week ook af en toe wat bloggen vanuit Spanje. Blijf checken dus! Vanaf nu zal ik echter in het Engels gaan bloggen. Sorry Dutchies, maar ik neem aan dat iedereen wel wat Engels kan verstaan dus dat moet geen probleem zijn toch ;)