29 mei 2012

Abregenief

Last week I've spent climbing outdoors in and mainly around Orpierre. I could stay with former Dutch Champion Mirjam Verbeek, who owns a gite in Orpierre and is really familiar in the area.

On the second day we drove to St Léger, one of the most beautiful area's I have ever been! I wanted to try a project over there, called Abregenief, 8b, in which I failed to make all the moves two years ago. This time the moves felt pretty easy and I was able to do them all in just one or two tries. Unfortunately it started raining right after my workout and the rain didn't stop for the next two days.

The first day after the rain all the tufas were wet and the water was running trough the big roves from the inside out. We decided to stay in Orpierre, enjoy the sun and to climb many semi-hard routes. I did Game over 8a, and Jusque là, ca va 7c+, both on my second go, besides some other routes. It was nice to feel the rocks again and to just enjoy some cool moves. 

The day after I felt pretty exhausted. Nontheles the rocks were dry, so we drove to St Léger. I gave Abregenief four tries, with my best one ending just 2 holds before the hard part was over. Afterwards I felt really exhausted. The weather forcast for the next day was really good, but I seriously needed a restday, so we decided to hope for the best and wait for saturday.

Saturday I woke up with the sun shining in my room, nice! My body was recoverd, but it was also my last day before returning to Holland, which gave me a lot of presure. The tries on Abregenief didn't go well. It was hot and sweaty, I felt worn out after one week of hard climbing outdoors and the presure made me feel really tensed. After 4 tries, which were getting worse every time, I already gave up the idea of climbing the route. From then on I was completely relaxed and on my 5th try of the day I found myself hanging on the final jug!!! Amazing! 8b, check! I could return home satisfied, with a lot of motivation to keep on training and with a lot of new projects in mind to dream about ;)



22 mei 2012

Pictures Lead 3





By Tim van der Linden (nkbv)

14 mei 2012

Lead 3

Yesterday the final national competition of this year was being held in Bergschenhoek. I was leading in the ranking with two 1st places in the previous competitions. I am feeling pretty good at the moment so the goal for this competition was to keep up the good work and top out all the routes. I knew the finals were pretty tough, but I liked the challenge and the route looked so cool that I couldn't wait to climb it! That was the right mindset. I really enjoyed climbing the finals and topped! With 9 out of 9 tops I won this competition and also placed 1st in the final ranking without falling once in three competitions. It has to be said that the routes in the international competitions are way harder, so now it's back to training again to prepare for the first worldcup of this season in Chamonix (12-13th of July).
Pictures are comming soon!

7 mei 2012

The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival



My main sponsor, The North Face, is organizing a great event in Kalymnos from the 28th untill the 30th of september this year. Kalymnos is definitely one of the best climbing destinations in the world. It's gonna be a great event with some big names, competitions in every level, big prices and of course a lot of climbing! So don't wait and subscribe yourself. More info on: www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/kalymnos