29 mei 2012

Abregenief

Last week I've spent climbing outdoors in and mainly around Orpierre. I could stay with former Dutch Champion Mirjam Verbeek, who owns a gite in Orpierre and is really familiar in the area.

On the second day we drove to St Léger, one of the most beautiful area's I have ever been! I wanted to try a project over there, called Abregenief, 8b, in which I failed to make all the moves two years ago. This time the moves felt pretty easy and I was able to do them all in just one or two tries. Unfortunately it started raining right after my workout and the rain didn't stop for the next two days.

The first day after the rain all the tufas were wet and the water was running trough the big roves from the inside out. We decided to stay in Orpierre, enjoy the sun and to climb many semi-hard routes. I did Game over 8a, and Jusque là, ca va 7c+, both on my second go, besides some other routes. It was nice to feel the rocks again and to just enjoy some cool moves. 

The day after I felt pretty exhausted. Nontheles the rocks were dry, so we drove to St Léger. I gave Abregenief four tries, with my best one ending just 2 holds before the hard part was over. Afterwards I felt really exhausted. The weather forcast for the next day was really good, but I seriously needed a restday, so we decided to hope for the best and wait for saturday.

Saturday I woke up with the sun shining in my room, nice! My body was recoverd, but it was also my last day before returning to Holland, which gave me a lot of presure. The tries on Abregenief didn't go well. It was hot and sweaty, I felt worn out after one week of hard climbing outdoors and the presure made me feel really tensed. After 4 tries, which were getting worse every time, I already gave up the idea of climbing the route. From then on I was completely relaxed and on my 5th try of the day I found myself hanging on the final jug!!! Amazing! 8b, check! I could return home satisfied, with a lot of motivation to keep on training and with a lot of new projects in mind to dream about ;)



3 opmerkingen:

  1. Great Nikki! One step forward. It would be interesting to know how to control the pressure of the effect that it has on your climbing.

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  2. Geweldig! Gefeliciteerd! Marijne Lekkerkerker

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