30 juli 2012

Ceuse part 1

Foto: Floriaan Drewes
After the Worldcup in Briancon I moved to Ceuse for some outdoor climbing. I had never visited this area before, especially because I was pretty afraid of the long walk up. After being here for one week I understand why so many people walk up that mountain every day. The quality of the rock is really high, huge overhanging limestone walls everywhere! And the view up there is simply amazing. It's a pretty magical place to be. Until now I have just been enjoying beautiful routes, from 7a to 8b. Some days ago I managed to climb L'ami de tout le monde, the most repeated 8b in Ceuse. What an amazing route! I didn't expect to send it so soon, considering the fact that I didn't even get close to the top in my tries before. I was actually just enjoying the moves and found myself clipping the anchor on my 3rd day of working.

Besides I also did my first 7c+ onsight, Mirage, without realizing it, thinking I was just warming up. Pretty nice line though! Right now I have got a bit less then a week left. There are many more routes I want to climb, so enough to do for now. It's time to walk up that mountain again to climb!

28 juli 2012

Worldcup Briancon


Foto: Nonstop Climbing

Last weekend I competed in the Worldcup in Briancon. After Chamonix, this was mainly a mental challenge. I had one week to get mentally prepared. Just before the competition I was pretty confinced that I did the right things during the couple of days I was at home. I didn't know if I was able to climb perfectly right away, but I felt really excited and didn't care too much about the results. This made me feel really relaxed. The feeling remained during the qualification. I really enjoyed the amazing routes and was able to fight until I was too pumped to hold any other hold. It was enough to make semi-finals.

The semi-finals were great. I could keep my head cool, took some rests at the right places and I managed to make the crux move where many people fell. I would have placed 14th if I shouldn't have made a mistake in the beginning of the route. When my foot slipped. my hand got stuck in the rope. In a reflex I grabbed the rope for a second. It didn't influence my climbing, but the judge decided that I had help of the rope and placed my back to the 26th position. I was really disappointed to end last in semi-finals after climbing so amazing for myself, but the decision was made and I couldn't change it anymore. At least it gave me some confirmation that I am strong enough to compete with top 20 climbers and that I can really push my limits in an international competition. Right now it's time to relax and climb some outdoors in Ceuse, before going to Imst for the next Worldcup. I can't wait. A summer full off climbing, nice!!!

18 juli 2012

Worldcup Chamonix

Last week the international competition season finally started with the Worldcup in Chamonix. I had been looking forward to this moment for months, but when the competition came closer, the excitement changed in nerves. This doesn't always have to harm your climbing, but in my case it did. I had been in a positive 'flow' for so long during the national competitions and trainings, that I had not even thought about the possibility that I could get some mental issues. During the competition I climbed really easily in both routes, until the point where I made a small mistake. This made me so stressed, that I wasn't able to look for the right solutions anymore. As a result I fell off in both routes, before I even got pumped. I placed 34th and was really disappointed. But it's a good moment of reflection. Upcoming weekend I will get a second chance in the Worldcup in Briancon. A good opportunity to really enjoy the comps I have been waiting for so long!