27 augustus 2012

End of summer: training in Innsbruck and climbing in Frankenjura

The summer holidays are ending and so are my climbing trips. I have spend the last two weeks climbing (what a surprise!), first in Innsbruck, Austria, for training, followed by one more week of outdoor climbing in Frankenjura, Germany. The training in Innsbruck was motivating like always. The climbing gym was full of climbers from all over the world, training for the world champs. Like everyone of them I came here for the great amount of super hard, super sustained routes. After one week of training my forearms were permanently pumped and it was time to go home.

Picture made during the semi-finals in the Worldcup in Imst, where I
competed before going to Innsbruck
(foto: Heiner Schmidl  http://www.klettern-imst.com)
Back in Holland I had one day to unpack my bag, wash my clothes, repack everything and do some training in my homegym, Mountain Network Amsterdam (aka thea). The next day we left for the Frankenjura, one of the biggest climbing areas in the world. I had never been here before and it has been on my wishlist for a while now. We just had a couple of days and considering the fact that it's only about 6 hours by car from Amsterdam, the Frankenjura turned out to be the place to go. I had a really good time! Every day we visited one or two new areas to do a lot of onsight climbing. The 7's went down really easily, flashing and onsighting twelve routes above 7a in four days, but in the hard routes I got pretty frustrated sometimes. Most of the routes are so specific here. It's so different to the long, sustained routes in Ceuse. I felt like climbing something hard here had nothing to do with being in a good shape, have a good endurance and being able to make a lot of hard moves in a row. Mostly I just ended up at the crux, not even getting close to the next hold.

Fortunately things changed on the last day. We went to an area called Holzgauer Wand, where there was an 8a which I really wanted to try to onsight, called L'eau Rage. The line looked great, so I decided to give it a try, with the quickdraws on my harness. I felt so confident and determined to finish this one. I ended up onsighting the route. Finally I had broken the mental wall which held me back from onsighting 8a. Really satisfied I could return to Amsterdam. After many weeks of travelling I am really glad to be at home now for a couple of weeks and climb some plastic. It's time to close my computer and go to the climbing gym, training for the World Championships, so motivated!

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