13 augustus 2012

Worldcup Imst

It's always hard to get used to plastic again after climbing outdoors. Since I have spent two weeks in Ceuse I was pretty afraid that I wouldn't get back in shape before the Worldcup in Imst. I had three training sessions in Holland before departure. Fortunately it turned out that I hadn't lost any power or body tension, so I was ready for the competition! In the Worldcup before, in Briancon, I made semi-finals, where I climbed very good, but I was placed back to 26th position by the judge. It gave me confidence that I was in a good shape, but it made the mental game for this competition a bit harder.

In the qualifications I was pretty nervous. In the first route me, together with most of the other climbers, fell at the same hold, so I had to do well in the second one. The route started with a slab, followed by an overhang and ending in the roof. I climbed a bit shaky on the slab, but once I got to the overhang I felt really sure. I didn't even get pumped until just before the top. I fell one move before the end of the route, which placed me in 14th position in the second qualification. In the final result I placed 18th, so I made it steadily to the semi-finals.

The semi-finals were held on the same day as the qualifications. We had six minutes for observation, but when time was over I (together with all the other women) still had no clue what to do. Instead of getting stressed I used this in a good way. I had to figure out the moves while climbing, trust my feeling and take time to read the next section while resting. This gave me the feeling I get when onsighting outdoors, which I really enjoyed. I ended up extremely pumped in the roof and fell after around 45 moves. Really satisfied about my climbing I placed 18th.

I will stay in Innsbruck, Austria for another week to train for the next competition, the World Championships in Paris, which will be held in 4 weeks from now. Time to gain some more fitness and work on some last little things!

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