25 september 2012

Semi-finals in World Championships and the Worldcup in Puurs

1,5 week ago I qualified for semi finals at the World Championships in Paris. The route was amazingly set and I was really excited for climbing. Unfortunately I made a wrong decsision halfway. I decided to clip the next quickdraw from a very big hold / volume. The hold turned out to be pretty bad and I couldn't find a position to clip, so I jumped to the next hold which was pretty good. Hanging on this good pinch there was no way I could reach the quickdraw and there was no way back either. I couldn't do anything and had to let go, which was a pitty because I felt so strong in the beginning of the route and I wasn't pumped at all!

Fortunately I had a second chance just the week after, with the Worldcup in Puurs, Belgium. I told myself I had proved to be in a good shape in Paris and the only thing I had to do now was not making any mistakes. It's always a bad sign if your goal for a competition is NOT to do something, but it's hard to recognize this mistake before it's already too late. I didn't recognize it and ended up climbing very tensed, making many mistakes instead and feeling very empty already early in the route. In the end I reached the 24th position, which is not satisfying at all.  

This weekend I will be participating in the Worldcup in Atlanta (USA). I am really looking forward to the American route setting style, which is pretty powerful with crazy jumps, campus moves and really cool tricks. I guess this will help me to find back the feeling of free movement in my climbing. 

13 september 2012

World Championships Paris - Semi Finals!

Yesterday the World Championships in Paris finally started. The French federation had already been promoting this event for quite a while. Considering the fact that it is organized in Bercy, THE sport palais of Paris, and that this event is really important for making climbing an Olympic sport, it was promissed to be big!
Second qualification. Foto: Truong Ngo
So yesterday was the first competition day, starting with men bouldering and women lead, in which I am competing. It is amazing to compete in such a big event, but the last weeks it also made me very nervous. I completely lost my feeling for climbing and was just focussing on doing everything perfectly. That obviously didn't work out well, but I realised in time that I had to change things.  So the last couple of days I have just been doing everyting I was feeling like. Besides I fixed some mental isues and just kept on climbing, making up routes and boulders which really inspired me. The positive feeling I was looking for returned.
The mental job was done, and during the competition I could climb like I wanted. I could have been a bit more relaxed, but the performance was ok. I placed 19th all together. With 26 competitors going to the semi-finals I am in! I am really psyked to start in semi's tomorrow, to be able to climb another amazing route in such a big arena in such a big event! It's gonna be fun ;)

5 september 2012

Boulder 3

Pictures by Paul Lahaye (www.lahaye.ws)

Last weekend the third national boulder qualification was being held. The competition took place in a brand new bouldergym in the very south of Holland, in Sittard. Although I will not compete in the National Bouldering Championship (I am going to the Worldcup in Atlanta instead!), and thus don't have to qualify either, I decided to compete anyway. It was a nice opportunity to climb some extra cool and creative problems and get warmed up for the World Championship which will take place in Paris next week! This turned out to be a really good decision. The boulders were really cool, I really enjoyed the competition and above all ended up in first place by flashing all four boulders in finals. Next day I woke up with sore muscles, so it was even a good training! 

After two months of vacation the summer holidays are ending as well. University has started again, but things won't really change for me. The next weeks are fully planned with competitions. So a lot of travelling and climbing is coming up. Stay tuned!