28 november 2012

Over the top, 8b+!

I am writing this blog while sitting in the Josito's with a nice cup of tea and a really satisfied feeling. Today I climbed my big project for this trip! I have been really eager to try Over The Top already for a long time, since I had seen a video of this route, but last time I was in Turkey I just didn't feel strong enough yet. On my second day here I worked the moves and it actually didn't feel that hard. The route is really sustained and long though. You have to climb for like 35 meters without any rests to find the hardest moves at the very top. From there you can reach far left to the route besides, to grap some holds in a flake which recently broke off, which makes the route a bit easier. Since I had been so inspired by the video where the original line is being climbed, I wanted to do it without the flake. I ended up figuring out an amazing sequence, making some moves which had to be executed perfectly.
The last couple of days this route has been on my mind all the time, but I couldn't find the right mindset to give it a proper go. After a long competition season I felt mentally drained. Today I woke up with the same feeling, but decided to give it some tries anyway. I didn't even think about clipping the chain yet. I just wanted to get used to the moves. In my 6th try I found myself executing the tricky move perfectly, sticking to the mono, and finishing off! So unexpected! Now it's time to really start celebrating my vacation by climbing whatever I feel like and of course enjoying the sun!

A full trip report and pictures are coming up.

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