24 april 2013

Boulder 2

After an amazing week in Kalymnos it was time to climb some plastic again. I am always having a hard time switching from the super slow outdoor climbing style to the more powerfull and fast indoor style. However a week in Greece made me really relaxed. Just 3 days after I came home, the second national boulder competition was being held, in Enschede this time. I discovered that climbing a competition just after returning from an outdoor climbing trip is actually really easy. I didn't have to deal with the mental part, because it just wasn't there.
Final Boulder nr.3 (Picture by Michelle Kruize)
During the qualifications I was a little bit tensed, but I guess that's normal for a competition. I managed to climb all 8 problems and placed first for finals. The finals were pretty cool, although I have to admit, the boulders really suited my style as a leadclimber. The first and the last problem were pretty obvious, but when observation finished I still had no clue how to solve the second problem. In isolation I kept imagining myself climbing in Kalymnos, so I could keep up the good feeling. This turned out really well. I managed to flash the first boulder. In the second boulder I imagined myself standing in between two big stalactites, which gave me the creativity and space to come up with a solution, thanks to which I managed to flash this one too. The third and last problem went down with a flash as well, which resulted in a 1st place.
Standing in between the two big stalactites in boulder nr. 2 (Picture by Michelle Kruize)
It has to be said that Vera is injured at the moment, and really had some problems with her finger during the finals. However, for myself I climbed as good as I could. I really had a good time and enjoyed the competition!



18 april 2013

Kalymnos

After many weeks of training in rainy, cold Holland I finally found my way to the rocks. Some weeks ago I ran into some really cheap tickets to Kalymnos, so I had no choice. After a stressful period with many big changes I really needed a break: celebrating vacation, enjoying the sun, climbing the most beautiful routes in a paradise full of tufas, etc. Kalymnos is THE perfect destination for climbing and relaxing!
Sunset at Grande Grotta
I decided to focus on onsighting this trip. I just wanted to climb every beautiful line I saw, never mind how hard or easy it was. Nearly every day we visited a new sector. Grande Grotta and Sikati Cave were definitely the most impressive: super long routes (all more than 40m from 8a and harder), running all the way trough big roves covered in stalactites. This is where I have been dreaming of every since I saw the first pictures of Kalymnos. Many people had recommended a route in Grande Grotta called Fun de Chichunne, an 8a, crossing a big rove, running all the way through the cave. In my opinion climbing simply doesn’t get any better. I have never enjoyed climbing a route so much before! The route runs from no-hands-rest to no-hands-rest with super nice moves with many tricks in between. I managed to onsight it, which took me 40 minutes and lowered down at sunset, looking over the sea and enjoying the moment.

 Left: onsighting Angelica 8a. Right: Enjoying the view after sending Fun de Chichunne (pictures by Waldo  Ruiterman)

Besides I managed to climb an 8b called Gaia and I onsighted two other 8a’s, together with a bunch of 7’s. Only five days of climbing were definitely too short and I am sure I will return to this beautiful island in the near future. For now I am charged again to get back to normal live for a while. Next thing coming up: the second national boulder competition this Sunday.


8 april 2013

Mammut and Mountain Network


Signing the contract (Picture by Reinier Rijke)
I am happy to announce my two new main sponsors: Mammut and Mountain Network. After many years of corporation with The North Face, Petzl and Beal it was time for a change. For most of you Mammut doesn't need any introduction: this Swiss brand is famous for the super high quality products, from clothes to hard wear, from shoos to sleeping bags etc. Mountain Network is one of the leading brands in climbing gyms in Holland, which has recently taken a big step in professionalizing the sport by opening a climbing gym (with a huge overhang, full of hard routes!) in a campus where sporters can live and eat as well.

Last Friday, during the official opening op Mountain Network Amsterdam, I signed the new contract. Mammut and Mountain Network will give me the chance to focus on climbing for 100%. This partnership is opening many doors for me and I am really excited to work together and to see what the future brings!



6 april 2013

Boulder 2

Last week the national boulder season kicked off too. Since I sprained my ankle 3 weeks before I was terrified of falling. During the qualifications I climbed horrible. I was really tensed and started hesitating once I was more than 1m above the ground. Fortunately I gained some confidence during the day and bouldering started to feel more and more natural again. In the end I qualified 2nd for the finals, by climbing all 8 problems , but in way too many tries.
The final boulders were simply amazing. The route setter had done a really good job by setting spectacular and tricky boulders. In the first 2 boulders I was still very tensed and scared, but after I had finished the slab I started to feel better and I could even relax in the last problem. I ended up in 2nd position behind Vera, which give me some points in the ranking to qualify for the European Boulder Championships which are held in Eindhoven this year!
Qualifications (Picture made by Brigitte Wieles)
Final problem nr. 1 (Picture made by Sytse van Slooten)

3 april 2013

Business Ballgame - Steeds beter worden in werk

Een paar maanden geleden ben ik samen met Sport naar Succes begonnen met het verzamelen van klimverhalen die als metafoor in het werk gebruikt kunnen worden. Iedere sport heeft natuurlijk heel veel met werken, organiseren en bedrijfsleven te maken. Maar klimmen bezet een bijzondere plaats: je gaat in deze sport ook letterlijk op weg naar de top. En dat is iets wat extra tot de verbeelding spreekt. Inmiddels hebben we al een aantal mooie metaforen bij elkaar verzameld, maar voor een compleet beeld is er meer input nodig!


Wil jij op dit blog een klimsportverhaal delen?
Ik kan je hulp goed gebruiken. Ik hoor graag jouw verhalen over klimmen en werk. Wat heeft voor jou klimmen met werken te maken? Dat kan gaan over de cultuur, over de uitdaging, over steeds hoger, over veiligheid, wat je maar te binnen schiet. Als jij jouw ervaringen deelt dan kan de klimsport op weer een manier extra als metafoor voor werken gebruikt worden.

Doe je mee? Je mag een fanatieke klimmer zijn maar ook iemand die alleen nog maar gedacht heeft over klimmen tegen een steile wand indoor of outdoor. Ik ben benieuwd naar je verhalen!