8 juni 2013

Testing time: Lead 2 and Saint Léger

The international competition season is getting closer with the European Championships in Chamonix taking place in about 5 weeks. Normally around this time of the year I've got a pretty good idea about my shape and the little things I want to change to be perfectly prepared for the season. Since injuries have been keeping me of my normal training plan I seriously had no idea about my level of fitness at the moment.
Onsight attempt in Slayer, pictures by Mirthe van Liere
Two weeks ago the second national lead competition was being held. Fortunately I managed to top out on all the routes again, which gave me some satisfaction. Apparently I wasn't that weak. But I was getting extremely bored in training: climbing the same routes and the same circuits over and over again, just to make sure I could keep on climbing without forcing my finger. Since outdoor climbing had turned out to be pretty good for my injury I decided that it was a good plan to do some onsight training outdoors. In this way I could get away from the too familiar routes and I could challenge my mind again with some new moves.

So one week ago we, Frank Loeve, Mirthe van Liere and I, drove all the way to Saint Léger. I have had a long wish list for this area since I left last year. The first route on the list was Le mur des 6 clopes, 8b/8b+. The first day I decided to take a look and the line turned out to be completely my style. Super psyched to link the moves I gave it a second try and to my astonishment I managed to finish it already. 8b/8b+ second go, and that after all those injuries! I couldn't (and still can't) believe it. Apparently the additional training plan worked out well. This was an amazing start of what turned out to be an amazing trip. All we did was looking for nice lines and just give it a go, no matter how hard or soft they were. In this way I sent many beautiful lines. Absolute memorable ones were:

- The onsight attempt in Slayer, 8a (which definitely felt much harder by the way), where I executed the moves fully committed and smooth in the beginning. After sending the first part (7c+) the real fight began. I got super pumped, but kept on sticking the holds until (30 minutes and 40m later) the last move, argh!

- La farce tranquille, 8a, one of the most beautiful lines I have climbed in this area. A perfect mix of tufa climbing in a huge overhang and a really exposed technical finish on small crimps.

- The workout session in L'idéal chimérique, 8c/c+ on the last day. The moves in this route were super inspiring. It felt like it should be possible to climb it if I would have loads of time. At least it gave me some confidence that I have the power to make those moves and this really motivates me to keep on training and hopefully link them one day!

1 opmerking:

  1. I am so impressed at how these people are maintaining their level of condition to be able to function in the competition. It is a tough competition though which also has great risks. These people must be so brave.
    - MutualCornell.com

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