One slip with the foot and it's over. That's the game which makes competition climbing really hard, but also really interesting. Many people ask me why I prefer lead climbing over bouldering. I always tell them that it really inspires me that in lead climbing you've got only one chance: if you fall it's over. You have to control the mental part perfectly to perform well. Yesterday I didn't, I slipped with my foot during the semifinals and threw away that single chance. It sucks, but that's climbing.
I qualified for semifinals in 10th position. I was not really satisfied about my climbing though. In the first route I got surprised by the tricky and hard moves in the beginning. I started trembling and couldn't climb relaxed at all. Fortunately I managed to pull myself together in the second part and topped out. The tricky beginning had really scared me though. I was really nervous for the slabby start of the second route. In the end the beginning turned out to be pretty easy, there was nothing to worry about. The tension had cost a lot of energy though, which made me getting pumped pretty early. I could fight for some more moves and fell. The ranking turned out to be fine anyway, which gave me some confidence for semifinals.
|During the first qualification (Foto: Heiner Schmidl)|
After the stress in qualifications I really had to think of something to get in the relaxed-competition-mood again. Semifinals were held that same day, so there was not much time. I spoke to some people and managed to fix a lot of things in this way. Before semi's I felt much better. The start of the route went down smoothly. I could take my time, feel the moves and look ahead. When I started to feel a bit tired I reached a big hold, clipped, matched to get in a good resting position, and then all of a sudden my foot slipped off. I was really annoyed and didn't know what happened! I guess I was a bit too tensed, or a bit too relaxed, or it might have been just bad luck. In the end I placed 21st.
I really feel like training now, so that is what we're going to do today here in Imst. Tomorrow we will fly back home where I will have some days to recover, sleep a lot and train in between. Thursday I will be flying to Nice to climb outdoors in Gorges du Loup for 10 days. That will definitely help me to get rid of the frustration I am feeling now!