17 april 2014

Siurana - back on rock

After a long period of revalidation, meaning little climbing and doing a lot of exercises, my knee finally got better. When my leg got functional again (before I was often falling of routes, frustrated from that useless 'thing'!) it turned out that I had gained a lot of strength. I was actually feeling stronger than ever. The recovery got just on time for my next climbing trip, which started two weeks ago. The initial plan was to visit some areas in Catalunya. We started in Siurana, which was so nice, with the scenic village, the beautiful view and the impressive walls. We decided to stay.

For training goals I started working on Migranya (8b) and Kale Borroka (8b+), which are two completely different routes. Migranya is short and powerful and super overhanging, known for the long moves. Kale Borroka, on the contrary, is a 40m endurance route on the overwhelming wall of El Pati, next to all the famous lines. I spend the first week working on those two routes and climbing many straight walls and slabby routes. I have never been really inspired by the straight walls, but that definitely changed in Siurana. I was happy to onsight L'escamarla 7c+, a super technical straight route. I had to fight so hard to get to the anchor and I really surprised myself by onsighting it. It's always nice to impress yourself on routes you thought to be your anti style.
 

The second week it was time to finish the projects. I had some doubts whether or not I could send them in the few days I had left. People always told me I shouldn't try Migranya. The moves would be morpho and for as far as I know, little or no women have climbed it. However, I could make all the moves and it was just a matter of time. But then it's always the question, how much time? After falling passed the crux a couple of times I was able to send the route many days before we left. This ascent feels more special than the other 8b's and 8b+'s I have climbed before. It's the first time I climb a project which doesn't really suit me. That made the mental game much harder, yet much more rewarding. 

The day after the ascent of Migranya we took a rest day. The day after it was time to get back on Kale Borroka. I executed the overhanging part pretty smoothly in my first go of the day. Then I got to the crux, a sequence of many tiny edges, more than 30m above the ground. I got really pumped and started to throw myself desperately to the small holds. Amazingly I kept sticking them. With one last desperate move I throw myself to the final jug and managed to hold it. 8b+ in the pocket! Fourth go.

I always need some confirmation about my fitness. I was pretty scared that I would have lost a lot of endurance and strength in those weeks I couldn't use my leg. This trip confirmed again that I don't need to worry so much when I get injured. I think it's just part of the game. Bit thanks to my sponsor Mammut for making this trip possible.

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