The national boulder championships are always a small celebration for me. I am not favorite for the title and bouldering is not my discipline. So I can just relax and enjoy the competition. In lead, on the contrary, the national champs are terrible. There is so much pressure, which makes it really hard to climb well.
This year this contrast was even stronger. Since I have barely done any boulder training in the past months, I didn't have the illusion that I could win. The day before the competition I was super relaxed, like there was not even a competition coming up. This feeling stayed during the competition. The only thing I was a bit tensed about was my knee and the fact that I'm still a bit scared to fall. Luckily I flashed all the boulders in the semi finals, so there was nothing to be afraid of.
In the finals I managed to flash the first two boulders. Then I failed on the slab, partly because I was scared, partly because I am not used to this bouldery style anymore. It's crazy how much the type of movements in bouldering and in lead drifted apart the last couple of years. I seriously believe that practicing the 'boulder competition style' has become absolutely useless for lead competitions. Bouldering and Lead are becoming two different sports, in which the way you have to move and position your body are almost contrary to each other.
Anyway, since Vera and I had exactly the same score after the third problem, it all came down to the last boulder. This turned out to be so extremely hard that we both didn't manage to reach the bonus hold. Since I had a better score in semi finals, I won the national title based on count back.
Now it's back to lead climbing. The day after tomorrow I am flying to China for the first World Cup of the season. I am really looking forward to start again, although I am also a bit tensed about the influence my knee injury has had on my current level. We will see, I can't wait to start!
|Podium (pictures made by Sytse van Slooten)|