Some weeks ago, when I booked by flight to Spain, the conditions in Rodellar were perfect. Unfortunately this period of nice weather ended just before we arrived. All the tufa's were wet and it didn't stop raining until our last day. Surprisingly, I had a really good time though. We decided not to wait for the big walls to dry, but to start working on the smaller sectors which stayed dry during the rain. Those sectors were covered in 7's, which forced me to spend my days onsighting loads of routes. I just had to accept that I was not going to send something really impressive and started to see this trip as a nice opportunity to train in one of the most beautiful surroundings I have ever seen.
During my stay I onsighted 20 routes 7a and harder, including one 8a named De vuelta al convento. All together it was a really good training for the upcomming competition season. By the end of the week it felt like I could 'read' the rocks much faster and my climbing felt more natural. Besides I worked the moves in some hard routes I really wanted to try. The holds were too wet to really give it a go, but I will definitely come back for those lines!
Back home I repacked by bag to spend two more days outdoors, in Berdorf this time. It has been two years since I last visited this area. During that trip I worked some of the hard lines, but failed in nearly all of them. Only in Hermann Buhl (8a+) I could make all the moves, so the goal for this trip was clear. When we arrived the rain was pouring down pretty heavily (again, pfff ;) ) but we could climb a bit anyway. The conditions were horrible though, which we didn't notice until the next day, when it was sunny and the moves felt much easier. I managed to send Hermann Buhl on my third try of the trip, after two workout sessions (one with humid and one with dry holds). What an amazing line! I finished the day with a good attempt on Borderline (8a+/b), which felt definitely 'do'able. I guess I have to come back soon to finish it!
|Hermann Buhl, two years ago (Picture by Rogier Mattens)|