24 juli 2014

Briancon

After the Worldcup in Chamonix we spend the week in the Briancon valley, climbing outdoors. This week was perfect. We visited three very different areas.
- Le Randouillet:              On the first day, when we didn’t have a car jet, we climbed in a small limestone crag just above Briancon. This first day after the Worldcup I took my time to recover and just climbed some 7 degree routes, enjoyed the sun and read a book.
- Rue de Masques:         The second day we picked up our rental car and drove to Rue de Masques, a conglomerate area with an 8b (Racing in the streets) I wanted to try, I managed to send this realy cool piece of rock second go!
Racing in the streets, 8b (picture by Rogier van Rijn)
Punishman Park 7c (picture by Rogier van Rijn)

- Face bouc:       The last day Rogier van Rijn took us to a relatively new area in Ailefroide. This place was amazing. A big overhanging granite wall with many 8 degree routes and a beautiful view. Since I had never climbed on granite before I needed some time to get used to the style and just climbed a 7c. We spend the day mainly taking pictures for Mammut, because without them all this wouldn't be possible.

Sector Face bouc (picture by Rogier van Rijn)
This week of relaxing was exactly what I needed and I felt much better when the Worldcup in Briancon started. In my first qualification route I climbed good and placed 11th. In the second route I felt terrible. The moves were tricky and the conditions were far from perfect. I could give a good fight anyway and placed 17th for semifinals.

In the semifinals I climbed really tensed in the tricky beginning, but unlike in Chamonix and China I managed to take some rest and get it all together again. I am satisfied that I could make this switch and finally get pumped in semifinals, but the result was still a bit disappointing. I gave away too much in the beginning and ended up in 20th position. 
Semi-finals in Briancon

14 juli 2014

Worldcup Chamonix

I am writing this blog from our apartment in the medieval town of Briancon, after a nice day recovering from the Chamonix Worldcup (e.g. climbing and enjoying the sun). Today I caught my first spells of sunshine since our arrival here in France. The weather in Chamonix was terrible. Fortunately, thanks to the perfect organization, the competition could go on anyway.
Super cool moves in the qualifications (picture by Paul Lahaye)
The Worldcup in Chamonix was not too good for me, but it wasn't really bad either. I am still searching for the 'competition mode'. My head is not in the right place yet and I think the only way to get there is to be patient. I guess I just need some time to get used to climbing competitions, handling the pressure and make fun again after a long period of being injured.
Semi finals (picture by Paul Lahaye)
Anyway, I was already climbing much more relaxed in Chamonix then I was in China. Like I said, it's not the way I want it yet, but I am sure it will come if I just give it some time (which might be the hardest, I want things to be perfect NOW ;) ) In the end I made semi finals in a really strong field and placed 19th. The Worldcup in Chamonix is always a really hard competition, in which I managed to make semifinals only once before. So I guess 19th isn’t that bad after all.
This week I will stay in the Briancon valley, climbing outdoors and celebrate some vacation, before competing in the next Worldcup here next weekend. Stay tuned for some updates!