20 augustus 2014

Outdoor climbing in Val Durance

When we were planning this years summer vacation I had the idea that I was running out of good summer areas. Everything seemed to be too hot, too  crowded or I had already been there too often. After some research we decided to see what Val Durance had to offer. This turned out to be a really good decision. I am pretty sure I won't get bored of this place for the next few years!

First of all, being surrounded by high mountains, the view in this valley is simply amazing. Within one hour drive from the campsite there were too many areas to visit, all with different types of rocks, climbing style and grades. We climbed in three different areas, Ailefroide, Pelvoux and Tournoux. Ailefroide and Pelvoux were granite crags, something I am not used to at all. So the granite gave me a hard time even in the easy routes, but it was very interesting and a lot of fun. Tournoux on the contrary is a limestone area with long endurance routes which fit my style pretty well. After being sick for a couple of days I started slowly with some 8a's and 8a+'s (Cost of Freedom 8a and Loups Hurlant 8a+). When I started feeling better I decided to work the moves in Intime étrangère, an 8b+ which was said to be hard for the grade. The moves felt not too hard, but the route was super sustained without any possibilities to rest for 30 moves.

When I returned after a restday I touched the final jug in my best attempt. The next day I was able to send it! Another send of a super beautiful line this trip. That day I managed to climb Beauté de chine, 8a+ in my second go as well. A perfect end of a really nice trip. We filmed some of the routes we climbed . Watch and enjoy!


2 augustus 2014

Worldcup Imst

The Worldcup in Imst, what can I say… The first qualification went pretty well. There were some tricky, hard moves in the beginning but I was able to rest after every hard move and stay calm. I really enjoyed the climbing and got passed the move where most people fell. Although I wasn't really pumped when I came off, I was pretty satisfied with my climbing. 

My performance in the second route was terrible. I started all right and I still don't really know what went wrong. I missed the next hold in a tricky move in the beginning of the route, which set me almost in last position. With the good result from the first route there was still a small chance I would make it to the semi's, but unfortunately I came short two places and ended 28th.

It's been a long time since I have messed up a competition so badly. Off course, everyone makes mistakes sometimes and things like this just happen once in a while, but that doesn't make me feel any better. Yesterday we had a really good, long training session in the indoor gym here in Imst. That finally cheered me up a bit again. Just climb, have fun, getting really pumped and tired, enjoy the moves and the routes, things I haven't done enough this year. Maybe this is a good wake up call to start doing things I like in climbing again ;) The next two weeks that won't be a problem. Tomorrow I will drive to France for two weeks vacation. I can't wait to climb some rocks and set my mind off competitions for a while! 
In the first qualification (picture by Heiner Schmidl)