30 oktober 2014

Asia trip Part 3: Worldcup Inzai

The Asia trip is over. After 3 weeks of travelling I am back home again. It was an amazing experience: so many new impressions, different cultures, nice people and good climbing. Although I had a really nice time in Japan, I also started to feel the consequences of all the travelling. Flying and changing hotels all the time was taking its costs. I felt more tired every day and I couldn’t catch up with sleeping. I decided to not pay too much attention to it and just enjoy being in Japan: training in the super cool climbing gyms and visit some touristic sights. I hoped this would give me some new energy.

At the competition in Inzai I realized I was just too tired to perform well in another competition. I climbed good mentally, but physically I felt empty. I couldn’t get pumped anymore and fell early in the route, placing 19th. All together it was an amazing trip with some good results,  great experiences and many nice memories I will never forget. Thanks to the Belgium team for adopting me for a week ;)

This weekend I will compete in the semi finals for the Dutch Championships. Right afterwards I will fly to Spain to get some sun and recover for the final Worldcup in Kranj.
Worldcup Mokpo (Picture by Heiko Wilhelm)

22 oktober 2014

Asia trip Part 2: Worldcup Wujiang

Some days have passed already since the second Worldcup of the Asia tour; the Worldcup in Wujiang. All the new impressions in Japan kept me from blogging, so let's get back to China. First of all I have to admit that the accommodation improved a lot since last year. The food was simply amazing (last year I had a hard time eating anything at all), which made our stay much more pleasant.

After one day of recovering it was time for qualifications. I already got pretty bored from doing nothing for a day, so I was super motivated to climb. I am so happy that I was able to find this feeling again after the beginning of the season! Qualifications were ok, but I climbed a little but too fast. I didn’t take enough time to rest, especially in the first route, but the mind was ok. I placed 9th and 10th in both routes.

After a good night rest it was time for semifinals. During observation I got even more motivated. The route looked great: many volumes and big holds, combined with some really small edges. When I started climbing I felt super relaxed. I think I haven't been able to climb like this in semifinals this season before. I found a good resting position in the middle and recovered completely. When I climbed on I made a mistake: I grabbed the wrong part of a hold with my left hand and made a heelhook on the previous hold to clip. Then I discovered that my right hand had to be where my left was. I couldn't climb back, because the previous hold was too small for both a hand and a heelhook. I jumped for the next and fell, completely fresh.

I was pretty disappointed about my performance and walked back to the hotel straight away, without seeing the others climb. When I got back some hours later, I heard that many others had made the same mistake and that I placed 11th anyway. I was really surprised, that's not too bad! But still, I had the fitness to climb finals that day. Anyway, I just made a stupid mistake, but the mind was perfect and that is the important thing for now. Up to the next Worldcup in Inzai!

14 oktober 2014

Asia trip Part 1: Worldcup Mokpo

3 competitions, 3 weeks in Asia. The big trip has started. Last weekend the first competition took place in Mokpo. I felt relaxed and super motivated. Climbing is such a mental game. By being in this state of mind, I made the competition pretty easy for myself (completely different compared to the beginning of the season). In semi-finals I was on the edge of falling a couple of times, but I could stay focussed, I kept on resting and I was able to push myself until I was totally pumped. I was really satisfied with my performance and it turned out to be enough for the 12th place. I guess I am getting back on track ;)
Worldcup Mokpo (Pictures by Ulf Lennertz)
This week we are staying in Seoul; do some sightseeing and some training. On Thursday we will fly to Wujiang for the next Worldcup. So stay tuned ;)
Sightseeing in Korea