29 april 2015

Rodellar

I just came home after two amazing weeks in Rodellar. Although I had been to this place already twice, I never had the chance to really experience it due to bad weather or limited amount of climbing days. But this time, both were on my side and it turned out to be better than I could dream of. The place is covered in beautiful, hard lines, all fitting my style pretty good. There were so many things I wanted to do that the only way of getting close to fulfilling my wish list was by climbing really efficiently: just sending every route as fast as possible to move on to the next astonishing line. The goal of the trip was to do some semi-hard projects combined with hard onsights to prepare for the competition season.


This made me really motivated for my onsight or flash attempts, resulting in the right mindset to send some hard stuff. I managed to climb my first 8a+ onsight, with a 40m endurance monster called Paideia! Later that week I added my second one and they were followed by four more 8a’s onsight / flash. Woow, I really surprised myself. In the meanwhile I had time (and a little bit of energy haha, those routes really drain you) to send  Espirit Rebeld (8b), El chorreras (8b/+) and Philipe Cuisinere (8b+).


So all together I had a really good time, just enjoying climbing routes that really inspired me. Although I ticked quite some routes, the wish list is only halfway done and it only got longer. I have to come back a couple of times more to finish it, but I guess that won’t be a problem ;)


The ticklist:
- 8a Gracias fina - flash
- 8a El corridor de la muerte - flash
- 8a Pieds nus dans la terre sacrée - flash
- 8a Coliseum - onsight
- 8a+ Mal de amores – second go
- 8a+ Paideia - onsight
- 8a+ Las dos golondrinas de la piscineta - onsight
- 8b Espirit rebeld – third go
- 8b/+ El chorreras o la belle inconue – third go

- 8b+ Philipe cuisinere

13 april 2015

Training, outdoor climbing and competitions

The last two weeks I spent travelling from one place to another to compete, climb outdoors and train, which was a really nice combination, although the start was pretty shitty. Two weeks ago, the third national boulder competition was being held in Rotterdam. I didn’t enjoy the competition at all, due to morpho boulders, high walls and mats which felt like stone. This combination made me feel really scared again (which I have been a lot since my knee injury and which was actually getting better) and I could not enjoy climbing at all. I even considered going home after the second morpho boulder in finals, but I decided to keep my head up and at least finish the competition. I ended up 3rd, feeling terrible.

Luckily that didn’t last long, because the next morning I took the plain to Spain to climb outdoors in Montsant for two days. The moment we arrived in Montsant I already felt much better. What a beautiful place! Situated in the middle of nowhere with an amazing view, this area provides some of the best climbing I have ever seen. Huge walls up to 70m, all covered in super sustained mega routes. I seriously doubt if I have ever been so pumped before ;) Attached to a rope, I felt super confident again and I immediately took my revenge the first day by onsighting Hidrofobia, 8a (although it took me the rest of the day to recover ;) ). We climbed a bunch of amazing 7 degree routes and on the second day I managed to send Falconetti, 8a+, on my second go. I felt completely recharged after climbing so many great routes in such a beautiful place. I definitely will come back here!

After two days it was time to fly home to leave for the training weekend of the Dutch Team. We spent four days in Germany training in Stuntwerk, Köln and Boulderwelt Frankfurt and bouldering outdoors. It was nice to be away with the whole team, get to know each other better and get my ass kicked by the little boys, who are getting older and are already a lot stronger then I am ;) After four days I was completely worn out but satisfied.

Lead 1 finals (picture by nkbv)
A few days at home gave me time to recover and catch up with my studies. Yesterday the national lead competition kicked off in Mountain Network Nieuwegein. I managed to top out all routes without getting pumped. I already felt confident about my fitness, but this definitely proved I am on the right way. It was nice to challenge the mental part again in a competition.

Now it’s time to go outdoors again, for longer than two days this time. Today I am flying to Rodellar where I will climb for the next two weeks. The wishlist is long and the motivation is high. A muerte!