20 juli 2015

Worldcup Briancon

After spending a couple of days outdoors in the Briancon valley, just climbing some semi-hard routes to relax and recover from the Worldcup in Chamonix, it was time to get focused again for the next Worldcup: Briancon.

Before the start of the competition I did not feel as confident and eager to climb as I was before Chamonix. Furthermore, it was insanely warm and I started late in qualification, which was a big disadvantage in this situation. I started the first route a bit nervous, but when it got harder I found the fight mode until my hand slipped off. Before I knew it I was back on the ground. Fortunately, I had already passed the crucial section when I slipped, so no stress. In the second route I was not focused at all. I was only thinking about how warm and slippery the holds were and I could not fight at all. But all together it was enough for semi-finals, a new round with new opportunities.

In semis I climbed super relaxed and dedicated, exactly the way I want to climb in a comp. However, a sudden super hard move disturbed this flow. The move really surprised me. I got a bit stressed and fell, still feeling pretty fresh. At first I was disappointed with my performance. I have been training a lot of resistance and power this year, to be able to fight myself through those kind of moves. At that moment, all this training seemed not to have paid off. But I was not the only one struggling with this move. Many competitors starting after me fell at the same move as well. In the end, the women ranked 12th to 21st fell at this point. Due to my bad performance in qualification, I placed 19th based on countback.

In two weeks the next Worldcup is held in Imst. My climbing in Briancon made me super eager for this comp. I will spend some time at home now to train and gain that extra bit of confidence I had in Chamonix. I can't wait to start again!
Semi-finals (picture by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine)

13 juli 2015

Worldcup and European Championships in Chamonix

Although the Worldcup in Chamonix is held every year, it was a special first competition this time. Since the IFSC had some trouble finding a location for the European Championships in Lead, it was decided to fuse the Worldcup and the European Championships. This resulted in an enormous number of athletes and an extremely  strong competitive field. Luckily I had gained some confidence about my shape the weeks before during the training and above all, I was really looking forward to start!

I had to start really early in my first qualification route. Although I climbed super relaxed and dedicated, I fell too early by copying the solution the demonstration video had showed, which turned out to be way harder than the solution the climber after me choose. But no stress, the second route looked much harder and powerful, exactly the things I have been focusing on this year! I managed to keep the positive mental attitude and placed 10th in the second qualification. All together it was enough to make semi finals.

The semi-final route was simply amazing to climb. I managed to find an almost perfect state of mind, which allowed me to rest, relax and push my limits. I gave everything I had and fell really pumped in the last couple of meters. This resulted in a 14th place in the Worldcup and a 10th place at the European Championships! Today we drove to Briancon, which will be the next stop for the Worldcup, but first we will spend some days outdoors :)