26 oktober 2015

Autumn in Rodellar

This year, I decided not to compete in the Asian part of the Worldcup season. Since it was only one competition it was not worth the energy of travelling all the way to China and back, getting jetlagged and all. So, for the first time in years, I was free to go outdoors in October! October is supposed to be one of the best months for climbing outdoors, which made me decide to plan one more trip to Rodellar.

I had already been in Rodellar for two weeks this spring. Although I had climbed a lot of routes during those two weeks, the wishlist grew and I had to come back for many other hard routes. In spring I had been doing lots of onsights, so this time the focus was on projecting. I ended up ticking quite some routes of the wishlist (which grew again…), some of the best I did:

      - Botanics, 8b+ (6 tries, amazing athletical route, went down really smoothly when I finally figured out the right beta)
      - Ixeia, 8b+ (Had been wet most of the time, but on the last day it dried up. I decided to just give it a try. With botanics already in the pocket I had nothing to lose. And wow, it went down in my 3rd try! I am still a bit surprised ;) 
      - Gladiator, 8a+/b (A 40m physical monster. It spit me out twice, because my biceps were not strong enough to make the next move. I think they grew a little during the last try, which made me send it one my 3rd go. Feels more like 8b to me)
      - La kanabica, 8b (Second go on one of the last days. Amazing line, crossing many tufa's and ending up with a technical crux on the straight wall. Super nice!)
      - Kings of metal, 8a+ (Recommended by Frank, who has been talking about this one for months. It was a bit wet, but after all those stories I just couldn't walk past it without trying. You were right Frank, it is an amazing line)
La Kanabica, 8b (Picture by Michel)
All together it was a really good trip. It remembered me how much I love being in nature, how motivating projecting can be and how perfect the simple life is when climbing outdoors. I want to go back! But no, for now it's back to plastic. I will be training for three more weeks for the last Worldcup of the season. It's time to find the motivation on plastic again.