It has been really quiet here the last couple of months, which is a good reflection of my climbing. I have been struggling with a lot of injuries during the past years. By the end of last season I was totally exhausted and all my motivation was gone. Me not being motivated for climbing is a really bad sign. Things had to change. The physiotherapists have been suggesting for a long time already that I have to adjust my posture in order to prevent future injuries and possibly make the next step in my climbing. Due to climbing and genetics my shoulders grew in a wrong position (way too much forward), which caused me many back problems and in the end also an always present pain in my elbows and fingers.
Luckily, I could do something about it, but it would set me back in climbing at first. To begin with, I was not allowed to climb for 6 weeks, during which I had to do a lot of stretching and exercises to learn how to position my shoulder the right way. Since I started climbing 15 years ago, I have never lived without climbing for such a long period. It made me realize that climbing became an important part of my identity. Therefore, those six weeks were not easy for me at all, but definitely learned me some big lessons. When I was finally allowed to climb again, I had to relearn how to climb, but this time with my shoulders in the right position. Learning new things is pretty amazing and I had not experienced this for a long time in climbing. It completely changed my perspective on the sport, which is really refreshing. Every training I can see the progress. I definitely found my motivation back. Climbing makes me feel super happy again and I do really appreciate being able to train at the moment.
the moment I have been waiting for finally arrived: my shoulders were good
enough to go outdoors again. We spend 3 days in Fontainebleau. Such a relieve,
being in nature again, looking for the beautiful lines. And the good lines we
found. We only climbed things that felt really beautiful to me. Beautiful
arretes, prows and other typical problems which can only be found in Fontainebleau.
I was even able to finish Welcome to Tijuana, 7C (not typical Bleau-ish, but a
really nice project anyway)! Although I am not back in shape, it's definitely
heading the right way, much faster than I had expected.
|No climbing, but trying to position my shoulders the right way|