22 mei 2016

Zillertal and Lead 1

After a long period of mainly bouldering and adjusting my shoulders, I could finally start doing some lead again. In the first training sessions, the endurance was totally gone. I was exhausted already after the third draw. I guess I know now how a boulderer climbing lead must feel. Luckily, my endurance improved quickly. It's not as good as it was yet, but now that I could climb routes again, I was super motivated to go outdoors. So we got into the car and headed to Zillertal.


I had never been to this area before, but it really surprised me! Zillertal was perfect for my current endurance, because the routes are really bouldery. Even though I didn't have that many expectations, I still managed to climb an 8b, Sagaro, and a few more 8's. But more importantly, the routes we did were really beautiful! Adjusting to the granite was pretty hard, since I am so used to climbing on limestone. The rock forced me to move and think in a different way. However, this was really refreshing and inspiring. We found some perfect lines, like huge prows and overhanging arĂȘtes, situated in an amazing alpine valley. All together, it was a really good trip and I will definitely come back here soon!
Electric Avenue, 8a
When I arrived home, I had some days to adjust to the plastic again before the first National Lead competition. The thought of competing made me pretty nervous, since I was not really confident about my fitness yet. But the competition turned out great. I had a lot of fun climbing the routes, since the setting was pretty tough. In finals I had to give a good fight and ended up two moves before the top, completely pumped! It was more than enough for the first place. Now it's time to get back to training. There is still a lot of work to be done.