3 september 2016

Worldcup Arco - 26th

The Worldcup in Arco was pretty disappointing. On beforehand, I was a bit afraid that my endurance would be too bad for this wall and that the result would be worse than in Villars (in which the routes were short and powerful), although I had one extra month of training. However, during the first qualification, it became clear that there was nothing to be afraid of. I could give a good fight and fell two moves before the top. Not bad at all!

 After the first qualification I had to wait a long time before I could start in the second route. I used all the time I had to warm up and to see how other climbers solved the problems in the second qualification. That appeared to be a very bad idea. I had started warming up for the first route at 9:30 and finished my second around 17:30. At that time, I was totally exhausted from all the tension and holding my focus for so long. I felt weak and empty in the second route and fell way too early. A nerve breaking hour followed, because I was going to be just in or just out semi finals. Luckily, it was just enough and I was allowed to climb once more the next day :)
During the second qualification (picture taken by The Circuit Climbing)
Unfortunately, I couldn't climb the way I wanted in semi-finals next day. Since I was the first climber out, I had to climb when the wall just got in the shade. The holds of my route were black and slopy. That, in combination with the heat and the sun was not optimal at all. I was slipping of every hold and had a hard time to keep focussed. After a nasty start I couldn't keep myself together anymore and slipped with my hand during a dynamic move, which put me in 26th position. It always feels so unsatisfying when you can't fight in a route. But that's part of the game as well.

After some ice cream and a dive in the Garda lake I already felt much better. It's time for some more training now. Next up is the World Championship in Paris, starting 11 days from now. I am really excited to climb there, since it is probably gonna be a really BIG event!